Didn't you know? Paradise lies in the Alpes!
... I am not!
A weekend in Tirol, chapter 8
Monday, 28 September 2009 after lunch
While eating my rolls and drinking some water I enjoyed the breathtaking outlook on ten peaks which were over 3000 metres high and a couple of others not much below that mark. From my point of rest I could look down into both the Gaisberg- and the Rotmoos valleys or turn around and have a glance on the magnificent mountains in my back. It felt like being in Paradise or like having found Walhalla: the place where the nordic gods dwelled and which could only be reached by crossing the rainbow. Truly I asked myself: "Could heaven be more beautiful?" It was hard to believe.
I took a last look at the Gaisberg glacier before I continued down the slope to the Rotmoos glacier. It was hard to believe that the beauty of the Gaisberg valley could be topped, but even the first glance at the Rotmoos valley told me, that I was wrong.
Here too the devastating signs of two retreating glaciers. On my map the Rotmoosferner on the left was splitting in two tongues at the ridge and running much further into the valley, being connected with the Wasserfallferner on the right hand side and reaching all the way down to the hiking trail. But in reality it didn't only a big moraine was left.
Below these slopes dwelled a further reason for my slow progess - a pride of chamois. It was the first time that I saw those animals. They were just small moving dots in the distance, but as I didn't want to shy them away I went down to the ground and watched them through my tele for easily half an hour or an hour. It was an impossible position to make decent photos, but I tried nevertheless. However this situation was also the reason why I finally bought a tripod these days. I hope I don't forget to pack it on my next trip.
I was totally lost in my observation of these animals, when a pair of hikers came up the trail from the opposite direction. It was high time to stretch my stiff knees and continue on my way down into Rotmoos valley.
Alpenkratzdistel
Cirsium spinosissimum
Einköpfiges Berufskraut
Erigeron uniflorus
Entering another valley ment entering a different world with different rocks and different vegetation.
Traubensteinbrech / Rispensteinbrech
Lifelong saxifrage
Saxifraga paniculata
Walking through the Rotmoos valley was in parts like walking through a stone desert. The moraine dominating the landscape much more than in the Gaisberg valley. There also seemed to be a greater variety of rocks and somehow all this made the struggling flowers and plants extra precious. Water searched its path through the grey rocks, cascading downwards in long small falls. And when the haze of the clouds clawed their way down the slopes the mosses, lichen and other vegetation seemed to shimmer like a weakening rainbow.
Marmots were whistling, the sound echoing from the rock walls, but no animal was to be seen apart of some butterflies and bees. In the distance I could see the Schönwies cabin my landmark for the decent back to Obergurgl. Slowly I closed the distance planning to make a break there before going down to the village.
Tough survivalists!
Have a closer look at the upper petals of this alpine toadflax. Its petals are translucent. Isn't it quite amazing how you can see through them?
While crawling on the ground, to take photos of flowers, stones and holes I finally reached the end of the valley. Looking onto my mobile I saw it was already 5 pm and not enough time left to bother the cabin staff for a bite to eat and cool glass of beer, if I wanted to catch the bus at 7 pm in Obergurgl.
So I restricted myself to sitting on a bench at the pond and eating the last roll. It was already a little stale and the cheese dry at the edges, while drops of fat had formed on its surface. But did it matter? No! My senses were spilling over with marvel, that the taste of food no longer seemed important. I enjoyed the last look into the Rotmoos valley, before crossing the dirt track that led from the cabin down into Obergurgl.
It looks as if I am standing on the top of a ridge, but .....
Sit down on the bench and rest your feet before starting the last 90 minutes downhill! Don't fall asleep, don't claim that your legs are stiff, there is still a surprise left for you.
See you in the next chapter!
COMMENTS
Merja-zerga said at 6:40 nachm. on Feb 8, 2010:
Cette nature nous captive et nous subjugue!!!
Merci et bravo Anke.
ThierryKarine
Mirella said at 6:51 nachm. on Feb 8, 2010:
No words !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I only say: Thank you !
Moorlerche said at 7:28 nachm. on Feb 8, 2010:
Merci beaucoup Thierry et Karin! Mirella, When I saw your comment, I had to to agree. Words might not be enough for this place. But when reading "No words" it suddenly hit me: the first verse of "Hymn" of Barclay James Harvest put it all into music. I put the link above.
Painterlaura said at 9:29 nachm. on Feb 8, 2010:
Definitely my favourite. Your spirit and patience shows in each photo. The beautiful flowers and insects found in among the most beautiful of mountains, sky and clouds. A wonderful contrast of form, texture and color. Congratulations.
Mrsfabulous said at 12:56 vorm. on Feb 9, 2010:
Awesome!!!
Lageho said at 1:22 vorm. on Feb 9, 2010:
Amazing. Wonderful. Underbara bilder.
WEIMAR said at 1:43 vorm. on Feb 9, 2010:
Ich schaffs nicht die Fotos alle anzusehen, aber die ersten Aufnahmen haben ein fantastisches Licht aufzuweisen...du hattest ein wundervolles Wochenende und das BESTE WETTER für die Touren, beneidenswert!!
Erich said at 3:11 vorm. on Feb 9, 2010:
Of course I know......great trip and amazing fotos with great light.
Wildthing said at 4:00 vorm. on Feb 9, 2010:
Astounding Alpine shots, Anke. Breathtaking beauty.
Mariel69 said at 4:20 vorm. on Feb 9, 2010:
Tack för att jag fick vara med och se dina underbara upplevelser.
Chilla said at 5:03 vorm. on Feb 9, 2010:
Simply wonderful Anke! I am particularly enthralled by the wonderful alpine flowers!
OscarDaniel said at 5:20 vorm. on Feb 9, 2010:
Great images and information! thanks!
FoguinhoFoto said at 6:06 vorm. on Feb 9, 2010:
Wonderful, images.
Tvarma said at 8:18 vorm. on Feb 9, 2010:
truly brilliant scenery but even better shots! in india i've only seen so much snow or glaciers much much higher. (4500 meters and above). the flora and fauna with the mountains make for a very complete story. very very beautiful. i hope it make it to the alps soon! :)
Tishfish said at 8:58 vorm. on Feb 9, 2010:
WOW ! ! What a beautiful trip with gorgeous results ! ! !
Chaitiamma said at 11:17 vorm. on Feb 9, 2010:
A Paradise indeed !!! Thanks !!!
Moorlerche said at 1:19 nachm. on Feb 9, 2010:
Thank thee all each and everybody! Apart from a weekend in Salzburg, a day in Vienna and Hainburg and a weekend in a lower Alpine region I haven't been to Austria and this trip was real touch with the lonely regions above their tree line. Gosh it was so beautiful. I always imagined them crowded with backpackers, but they weren't. Autumn seems to be a perfect season to go there if you are looking for solitude. Petrus, I thank you for the magnificent weather you prepared for me for this trip!
Ira said at 2:15 nachm. on Feb 9, 2010:
Great tabblo! Wonderful photos! Very beautiful views!
RosaneMar said at 4:12 nachm. on Feb 9, 2010:
Beautiful tabblo!
Lange said at 4:47 nachm. on Feb 9, 2010:
Muito bonito parabéns.
Pkeener said at 6:07 nachm. on Feb 9, 2010:
I would love to visit the Alps some day and now even more so. Marvelous photos of every aspect. The last photo is very inviting
ConnieL said at 12:08 nachm. on Feb 10, 2010:
Oh, wow! This is beautiful! Thank you for taking us along via your photos and narrative!
Moorlerche said at 1:47 nachm. on Feb 10, 2010:
Thank you very much Ira, Rosane, Solange, Pam and Connie.
Moabjeeper said at 8:00 nachm. on Feb 11, 2010:
Another beautiful set.
Moorlerche said at 12:24 vorm. on Feb 12, 2010:
Many a thank you to you Bob!
JoanW said at 7:20 nachm. on Feb 12, 2010:
Another lovely tabblo of stunning natural beauty. Your camera certainly takes excellent close-ups and zoom shots. I guess you use a tripod? I know it is better to use one, but I can't be bothered to carry one around with me. The waterfalls are really lovely here and you have captured them well, I had problems getting it right with the moving water in my Norway photos. Yours are beautiful, clear and sharp. Great work!
Swedfinn said at 3:01 vorm. on Feb 17, 2010:
Jag visste inte det innan men nu är jag ganska övertygat om (nästan)
Hhwind said at 12:18 vorm. on Feb 21, 2010:
A fav, thought I was looking at NatGeo, fantastic work
The Austrian-Italian border runs precisely on the ridges an peaks. Behind this mountain range you will find the Texel group and the valley of Meran.
Rotmooskogel = Red Moss Peak (3335 m), Wasserfallferner - Waterfall Glacier, the Hinterer Seelenkogel = Cima delle Anime (3489 m) is just a little peak behind the snow on the glacier, Mittlerer Seelenkogel (3424 m)
I do love my telezoom :-)
Trinker Kogel = Drinker's peak (3150 m), Scheiberkogl (3133 m), Rotmoosjoch = Red Moss Saddle (3055 m), below these peaks the Rotmoosferner = Red Moss Glacier
Rotmoosache - Red Moss Creek
Rotmoosferner, Scheiberkogel (3055 m), Rotmooskogel (3335 m), Wasserfallferner, Mittlerer Seelenkogel (3424 m), Vorderer Seelenkogel (3286 m)
Crevasses
Rotmooskogel (3335 m)
Heutler Kogel = Monte del Cumolo (3236 m), Trinker Kogel (3160 m), Scheiberkogel (3133 m), Rotmooskogel (3335 m)
Scheiberkogel and Rotmoosferner
Dolomiten Rapunzel - Phyteuma sieberi
In der Kirchen - This ridge is named "In the church". It lies below the Kirchenkogel (Church Peak).
Hangerer (3020 m)
Chamois - Gemse
The trail is crossing the moraine.
Bewimpertes Sandkraut - Arenaria ciliata
Zweiblütige Miere (Minuartia biflora)
Might this be tyrolian garnet?
Enzian
Frontier mountains
The biggest trail marking to be found far and wide. Otherwise marking consist of stones painted with the Austrian colours red-white-red.
Distelfalter - Cynthia cardui
Alpen-Leinkraut - alpine toadflax - Linaria alpina
Zwergschafgarbe - Achillea nana
Braunklee - Trifolium badium
Silberdistel - Carlina acaulis
Enzian
Nobody at home!
The picknick break is within reach: the Schönwies cabin - die Schönwieshütte.
Cutting away the fence changed the appearance of the photo.
